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Olives
The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit
By Mort Rosenblum
Chapter One
"... I like them all, but especially the olive. For what it symbolizes, first of all-- peace with its leaves and joy with its golden oil." --Aldous Huxley
"The olive tree is surely the richest gift of Heaven." --Thomas Jefferson
An olive, to many, is no more than a humble lump at the bottom of a martini. Yet a closer look reveals a portrait in miniature of the richest parts of our world. Olives have oiled the wheels of civilization since Jericho built walls and ancient Greece was the morning news. From the first Egyptians, they have symbolized everything happy and holy in the Mediterranean. But it is simpler than all that. Next time the sun is bright and the tomatoes are ripe, take a hunk persian blue wall paint
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a few years longer, but only when absolutely pure and kept away from light and heat.
Once, in Spain, I asked an olive expert which was the best oil. "What is the best cheese?" he replied. It is all a matter of taste, and no broad categories apply. "Italian" oil ranges from syrupy yellow southern oils to thin green Tuscan crus with a "peppery" (that can mean bitter) afterbite that may last through a long siesta. In an hour's drive, you can go from the sweet, buttery oils of Liguria, past the green and fruity Luccas, to the sharp elixirs of high Chianti. Fanatics might keep a dozen oils in their kitchens, from Cretan to Californian.
A basic set of standards guides the consumer. Extra-virgin oil means that the amount of free fatty acids--mostly oleic acid--is below 1 percent. Also, the organoleptic properties--taste, aroma, feel on the tongue--must rate high. Virgin oil, rarely found on the market, can have up to 2 percent acidity. Both are freshly squeezed by one of several processes known as "first-press" or "cold-press."
Plain olive oil, often marked "pure," is refined inferior stuff best kept for frying. It is "rectified" with steam and chemicals and persian blue paint color
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Place, Durrell describes his pilgrimage to Corfu to bring his own green oil to Saint Arsenius in a rock niche on the rugged coast "The silver olives slide breathlessly down in groves below one as if to plunge into it and to swim for dear life out into the blue ... Yes, it was in this landscape that I reamed many important lessons: the kind you cannot put into words. Even the driver had fallen silent now as we traversed these long, silent groves of ancient olive trees."
And, in Prospero's Cell, he explains why he was moved to such trouble: "The whole Mediterranean, the sculpture, the palms, the gold beads, the bearded heroes, the wine, the ideas, the ships, the moonlight, the winged gorgons, the bronze men, the philosophers--all of it seems to rise in the sour, pungent taste of these black olives between the teeth. A taste older than meat, older than wine. A taste as old as cold water."
Americans, by and large, have a different view of the olive. This disturbs Willis Barnstone, whose forty books touch regularly on the Mediterranean soul. Olives are often on his mind. "If there are four elements in the world--earth,.
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is Mediva – they are gloriously good,” David Josephs, owner of Panzer’s Deli in St Johns Wood, tells The Independent. Later in the month, you can expect the Faralia, Fartoli and Farbela varieties. Judging whether an English apricot is ripe and ready to eat will depend on a few factors, he says. “The skin should be 50 per cent red blush and 50 per cent orange hue,” he says. “The smell will have a citrus, sweet, acid smell. If they don’t have this, then their sugars are not developed enough.” The apricot should also be dense and firm, but never crunchy! Of course, you can’t beat an apricot fresh off the tree, but Jospehs adds: “I love making a simple salad of tomato, oven-roasted apricots, mozzarella and fresh basil, with a few drops of 12-year-old balsamic vinegar.” Robin Gill, chef-owner of the newly opened Bottle & Rye, a Parisian-style wine bar in Brixton, thinks apricots for breakfast is a great start to the day. “I serve them so simply, just slice them into wedges and place in a bowl with fresh ricotta, toasted walnuts and honey. Heaven!” To avoid wasting any part of the apricot, he recommends keeping the stones.
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The personal greeting as you arrive, the hushed tones, the dark red and brown decor -- it's all redolent of a gentlemen's club. A buffet-style breakfast is served in Michael's Club in the morning, and there is a cocktail hour most evenings. Slush (Deck 12): Nestled in a small stand on the Pool Deck, it's more of a serving station, which only sells frozen cocktails. Sky Observation Lounge (Deck 14): This is one of the most stunning public bars at sea, with huge windows all around, ample seating and a dance floor. It's a gorgeous space during the day for just gazing out to sea or at night for watching the stars, while a DJ plays different themes of music. Sunset Bar (Deck 15): Just above the Oceanview Bar and exposed to the elements, the Sunset Bar is a great spot to watch the sun set. There are chairs and tables just beside it, as well as rows of chairs and small tables on both sides of the grass lawn, so you can grab a drink and park yourself there for the jazz concerts. The main pool area on Deck 14 includes a family pool (shallow for youngsters), separated narrowly.
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